Inca

The Inca ruled a large Andean empire in South America before the Spanish conquest. Their political world brought many communities together, and clothing and ornaments helped make rank visible.

Fine tunics, called unku, were woven with exceptional care. Patterns and colours could be appropriate to particular wearers or occasions. Some miniature tunics dressed sacred figures rather than people.

Ear ornaments, necklaces and other valuable objects added to ceremonial appearance. But not every ancient Andean jewel was Inca: metalworking and weaving had long histories among neighbouring and earlier cultures too.

The dramatic pictures of Atahualpa and the conquest tell only part of the story. Royal dress points towards another: the skilled work needed to turn thread, metal and other materials into a powerful public appearance. These are later representations, rather than photographs of the imperial court.